![]() ![]() Can someone tell me if it will at least make it run? I know the timing curves/transmission stuff might be a little different but if I can prove the PCM is bad I would feel alot better spending the $$$ on the correct one. I was going to try swapping the PCM from the two cars but my donor is a '98 with a return style system and the car I am working on is a '99 with returnless. **Again this leads me to PCM being faulty and causing it not to communicate** It also gave me hope if I can get them to communicate because there is a key programming option in the ScanTool software. The program communicates with the '98 donor car without any issues. I also hooked my computer with my Ford ScanTool program up to the car and it will not communicate with it at all. Swapped the ignition switch (electrical portion) - Checks out ok Swapped ignition antenna ring - Checks out ok **This leads me to believe the PCM is faulty or the PATS system is malfunctioningĭid some swapping/comparing to my rusted out but running '98 donor car ![]() Manually ground PCM side of Neutral/Park gear sensor - Car cranks but does not start (even with starter fluid) relay switches when manually grounded / Car cranks but does not start (even with starter fluid) Power to the green starter relay (relay 7) in the engine compartment - check Power to the ignition cylinder/switch- Checks out ok For those that might be trying to track down a similar issue I discovered that Auto Zone has wiring diagrams listed out by year - this has proved very invaluable to my diagnostic process.īecause it will not crank over I decided to focus on the starting system: Because I have read of so many people with similar issues I am going to try to detail everything I have done quite thoroughly. I managed to get the car into the garage and did some investicgation work on it tonight. Is this an issue with a ground? PATS malfunctioning? Neutral safety switch? Funny thing is even when I remove the key the PATS light never blinks unless I unhook the battery and reconnect it. I have full dash lights (check engine light never turns off when the key is on) and half go off when I turn it to start. The PATS light blinks with the key off, accy, but turn it to on and the light goes away. I hooked he connector back up but now it won't event crank over. Tried jumping 12v directly to the fuel pump with it disconnected but it still didn't come on. I thought there was supposed to be 12V to the fuel pump so I thought there might be another issue upstream. I was getting 6.8v from the purple/yellow to the black wires with it unplugged. Did not fix the issue so I unhooked the battery and disconnected the fuel pump connector (I have the returnless system). Narrowed it down to the fuel pump not priming up so I checked all fuses and swapped the relay for a known good one. When I tried to start it this weekend it wouldn't stsrt. The car was running when it was parked and has sat for about 2-3 weeks. Although it was somewhat fun, I WILL NEVER BUY A FORD AGAIN.I was trying to diagnose my cranking but no start this weekend and it has since turned into no crank no start. I got it towed home and actually was able to sell it to an enthusiast who went to my same school, and he ended up doing a 3.0L swap in it. I was stranded on the side of the highway with a busted car, and no money to repair it. I discovered that one of the lifters was loose, but before I could even think about repairing it again, the engine exploded on me IN A BIG WAY! I was driving on the freeway at 70 MPH when the car shuddered, the knock got real bad, then with a sound like a cannon, it let go, and I mean, it didn't just die, it completely BLEW UP! I'm talking fluids coming out like a waterfall, smoke everywhere, and a smell I will certainly never forget. It must have had an unknown problem or something, because after I had the synchro repaired, which the dealer refused to repair, and I had to pay an arm and a leg to fix, the engine developed a slight knock. Although after a week of driving it, and I had been driving it normally, my 3rd gear synchro went out. I had it checked by a Ford Certified mechanic, and was given the thumbs up. It was in good condition and I got it for only $2000 from a desperate kid. I had high hopes when I bought this car, only to discover that it was just that, hopes! I loved the way this car looked in its deep candy apple red-ish color. This car is just nothing but a complete piece of crap that Ford thought would sell good. Tires were good, although needed alignment (which was repaired).Įngine exploded at 120,500 and that was the end. Speedometer quit due to failed transmission speed sensor. Windows barely rolled up and down (fixed with new motors).
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